In recent pattern cutting lessons with Lareen, we have been looking at how to create different sleeve styles such as puff sleeves, set-in sleeves, bishop sleeves, leg of mutton sleeve, capped sleeve, etc. all working towards a final top project and to take forward into the white on white work.
Set-in sleeve:
The set-in sleeve is a sleeve which is sewn in 'set-in' at the armhole rather than being cut continuously with the fabric.
To sew this sleeve, we used gathering to ease the sleeve head into place in the armhole.
The overall result is a really neat and professional look. I used a roll hem to finish the sleeve and this worked quite nicely for a tidy finish.
Puffed Sleeve:
The puffed sleeve is a lot more a voluminous style sleeve - it could be either puffed at the sleeve head or at the cuff using a gathering stitch. The pattern was created by cutting and slashing open at even intervals to add in that extra fabric where you want the volume to be.
I then used a facing to neatly finish the raw edge, securing down in place with a stitch in the ditch at the sleeve seam.
The puff sleeve is definitely one of my favourite styles and one I'd like to experiment more with in preparation for the top project.
Capped Sleeve:
The capped sleeve is a much smaller sleeve style; extending just over the shoulder, not reaching the bicep line.
We also had a go at looking to reduce the ease on the sleeve pattern here, which definitely made it easier to see, however, I still ended up having to do a little gathering to ease in the head.
I think the capped sleeve looks a lot more casual and, using a thinner, drapier fabric, I found that it sat a lot more comfortably on the arm.
Bishop Sleeve:
The bishop sleeve is a regular set-in sleeve with ease at the top, but expands nearer the cuff to create lots of volume at the bottom of the sleeve.
The volume was created in a similar way to puff sleeve, but was rather cut and slashed into from higher up the sleeve down to the cuff (on a long sleeve).
The bishop sleeve is quite a historical-inspired sleeve and I absolutely loved the effect of added volume.
I secured the end of the sleeve with a cuff, secured with a stitch in the ditch to catch in all the raw edges. - This produced a really clean finish.
Leg Of Mutton Sleeve:
The leg of mutton sleeve is also quite historically inspired and the look achieved is a sleeve that is very puffed and voluminous at the shoulder, but tapers down to a much more fitted look.
I decided also to start experimenting with different cuffs, and so I used a frill cuff which I feel added a playful contrast to the lower fitted sleeve!
I was able to cut and slash in lots and lots of volume at the shoulder which I think is so effective! The calico fabric also worked quite well to hold this shape and texture.
I've really enjoyed exploring different sleeve styles and am looking forward to experimenting further to develop more unique and playful looks towards my top and white on white project!
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