Over the last few weeks I have begun toiling my final designs for my FMP - The Nutcracker: Reinvented. In this blog post I wanted to talk a little bit about my final design ideas and how I plan to realise them...
As an overview I am creating looks for The Sugar Plum Fairy, The Snow Queen and The Harlequinn Doll. My looks are for three different characters so each outfit has it's own indivualized identity and characteristics, however, I have looked to draw the three pieces together in the use of similar silhouettes, shapes, and features such as asymmetrical sleeves, dramatic waist pieces inc. peplums, a tutu skirt and my big bubble skirt for the Snow Queen. The neckline is also similar in each garment in order to draw small ties between each outfit as so to show a continuity of style and aesthetic throughout the look, though it's important to point out that I am not making my three looks as a cohesive collection, but they rather showcase three different characters for a dance production.
The Sugar Plum Fairy
For my Sugar Plum Fairy look, I have decided to curate the base of a traditional ballet tutu, as this was something I wanted to make as part of my dance looks in order to challenge my skills and learn something new. The design also looks to draw ties between traditional dance costumes, such as ballet, with much more modern and contemporary styles of dancewear and modern fashion. The inspiration behind this look heavily drew upon work of modern designers inc. Heather Picchiotino and Johnny Wujek, who have worked with Katy Perry on some of her iconic looks. I was particularly inspired by Katy Perry's California Dreams Tour looks as they massively drew upon this idea of confectionary-like garments as Katy danced in her own Land Of Sweets. I've combined elements of these wild, inspired design features including an exaggerated puff sleeve, which mimics the shape of a sweets wrapper, a structures shoulder flake-like detail, as well as appliqué, stuffed 3D like sweets on the bodice, with more stubtle and traditional design elements such as the shaped tutu plate design and a sweetheart bodice neckline as well as lace trimmings and ribbon. I think the contrast and balance between subtle and traditional with modern and more boundarie pushing looks to create something new and exciting with iconic hints back to the character which are still kept obvious. I also think the waist peplum adds a fun feature as I will look to stuff it for 3D effects, looking to interpret as if there is chocolate dripping around the waist like on a cake, and elements like lace trims interpret delicate cake piping. My ideas and shapes are informed and inspired by my own observational drawings and research.
The Snow Queen
For my Snow Queen look, again, I wanted to draw ties back to more traditional interpretations through the use of colour, looking at blues, whites and silvers, which will also help keep character references obvious. But I am putting a big spin on my interpretation of the look throughout silhouettes, shapes and use of fabrics... I wanted to create something foward-thinking, innovative, and above all fun. I want the garments to be exciting to look at in order to really engage with audiences.
For My Snow Queen look, I've drawn references to observational drawing work from research, including looking at the shapes of real snowflakes up-close. But I've also combined this with shapes and styles taken from looking at other Nutcracker interpretations. I ended up coming up with my own concept for this huge, exaggerated bubble skirt, which would be made in a transparent PVC fabric in order to be able to see through the skirt to design details underneath/inside. The transparent skirt takes on the nature of ice and snow in being fragile and, like ice, almost see through. I'm looking to combine this with my appliqué skills, which is a technique I sampled a lot in my sketchbook and one in which I like the look of, and so am wanting to create my own appliqué snowflakes that will be sewn all over the bubble skirt to enhance the theme and look of the snow queen, as well as adding more detail and excitement to the transparent skirt. This also will link with the bodice appliqué which features my own snowflake design across the high bust and chest. - Colours link throughout.
The under look will be created in stretch, dancey fabrics, and I have included an overlay flowy circle skirt with snowflake shaped shard features hanging from the waist. Underneath this will then be a bandeau neckline style bodice which is attached in bodysuit style to a pair of under-shorts which will help keep the dancer covered and able to dance with ease and confidence as the skirt twirls around on-top.
This is possibly my favourite final look as I think it beautifully illustrates the snow queen in an obvious, yet boundary pushing and new, fun way. I love th structure of the PVC skirt and the way you will be able to see the outfit beneath through it!
The Harlequin Doll
My third and final design is for the Harlequin Doll and the feature of this piece was to create my own pattern design of a modernised harlequin print. I used digital processes to snap my design into the illustration and hence show how it would look on the outfit. I was really pleased with how modern, new and individual the pattern felt and I sort of used elements of this to inspire other parts of the design so it felt cohesive. I was also inspired by the work of designers Armani Privé and Christian Dior for this look, as they bother utelized and adapted the harlequin look/print in their own personal style/way.
I've combined feature elements such as a ruff collar style sleeve and an exaggerated, structured waist peplum to made the design more interesting as the base is a fitted, stretch jumpsuit. The peplum and bodice will also feature beading and embellishment details to long to those sorts of elements of bling on my other garment designs and to really brig it to life on the stage!
Styles and design features such as the ruff collar sleeve link back to initial drawings and observations of traditional jester, clown and harlequin costumes as I wanted the harlequin to feel authentic, but, again, modernised and personal.
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