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Louise Love

MAKING MY FINAL BODICE TOP

For patterncutting, I made a final bodice top inspired by the artwork of Paul Klee. I looked at patchworking and piping to recreate the blockiness of colour I can depict in the artists work.

I was particularly looking at the abstract shapes and colours in this painting ‘Garten Im Orient‘.


My final bodice design consists of patchwork panels and piping inserted at the seams to create the harsh black lines. I also added in an exposed metal teeth zipper and a buckle all as part of the design decisions to help emphasise and interpret key features of the painting.

The pattern was really quite complex to make, marking in and creating all these separate panels that join back together to create the final top shape.

I also drafted the band ‘facings’ by drawing them on where I wanted them to be, about 3cm wide and tracing them out with seam allowance.


For the back, I drafted princess seams from the shoulder and piping would be inserted here to. I also marked in the ‘v’ neck shaping, referring to the basic front pattern piece in order to ensure the shoulder meets nicely. I also drafted the neck band facing in the same way I did the front. The final step was also to create an exposed zipper facing for a neat opening to insert the zip as well as drafting facings for the armholes.


After cutting out my fabric, I then overlooked and began sewing the top together. Attaching the patchwork pieces first and inserting the piping at the seams - it was important to ensure the piping disappears away into the seam for a neat look. I also made sure to press all the seams as I went along to keep everything laying nice and flat.


I attached the band facings using a stitch in the ditch to secure them down - I actually used my stitch in the ditch foot which really helped me sew neatly in the ditch.

Once sewed and turned the zipper facing back, I used a top stitch to secure my metal zipper in place, tucking the zipper tape behind the facing to finish the edges.

I the attached armhole facings for a neat edge finish and attached the buckle along the hem using a french seam to hide the raw edge. I also inserted a hook and eye into the centre front for the ease of movement and taking the garment on and off.

I am, overall, really happy with how this top turned out and found it really exciting to give myself the extra challenge of piping and patch working! The exposed zip inserted really neatly and is an aesthetic design feature that I feel works well. The overall colour panels and contrasts are really interesting in relation to my chosen artists. I love how the contrasts depict abstract shapes and forms.







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