Over the February hale term I have been looking at creating the final toile for my Pattern Crazy garment, ready to sew together the final project this week!
My Final Design Idea:
This is the final design idea that I have come up with, inspired by the theme of plant structures. I've also illustrated the design idea with the final pattern prints I am looking to use to create the look.
Various different shapes draw upon inspiration and observational work from research, such as the ruched shorter trouser which will be shaped to a curve, interpreting the shape of a leaf. Ruffle and curve shapes also draw upon images and observation of plant seeds as seen under a microscope; - elements such as the collar curve edge was drawn looking at curves in these plant seeds. The dramatic arm ruffle will also have horsehair inside to support and hold it out in place, with lots of volume and body!
The concertina like shapes created on the right leg will be done by the method of cutting and slashing the pattern. The shape effect is very much inspired by a spiral cactus plant that I saw during primary research stages.
The exaggerated balloon sleeve and cut-out jacket detail shape are both inspired and taken from cellular plant material where I looked really closely at different shapes, structures and textures within these cells to pick-out shapes to re-create through garment construction techniques.
The trouser yoke also looks at hidden shapes and structures within plant cell imagery, looking closely at the work of Rob Kessler.
My Completed Toile:
Here is the completed toile of my design idea, which I actually created in two different scrap pattern fabrics to start to visualise how the pattern would work with the different shapes and elements.
One of my favourite parts of the design is definitely the horsehair ruffle, which, although it was actually quite tricky to achieve, looks incredibly definitive and really stands-out on the arm - the added horsehair structure making it look really 3D and dramatic!
I think the ballon sleeve looks really interesting also - I used interfacing to help it hold the bubble shape a little more structurally. I liked how the elastic added a playful curly hem to the fabric. I would like to look at how I can give this sleeeve eve more support, though as I feel the interfacing perhaps weighed-down the structure a little, so perhaps something like a netting structure is more appropriate.
The curved collar shape really stands-out which I like and I think the cut-out jacket shape is also quite fun and unique, especially in contrast fabrics! The mini ruffle effect on the jacket also adds a lot of volume and intrigue which I like - I will add another ruffle across the bottom edge of the jacket for my final design look.
I think the ruched trouser works really well as the ruching channels add a lot of textures, lines and dimension, obviously linking back to the theme of structure really well. I do need to think about how I will hem this edge, however, as the curve will be trickier to use a regular turn-up hem on neatly. I'm thinking of exploring a facing hem to resolve this.
I also think the concertina effect is quite fun, but I definitely need to look at inner structure here, such as bonding channels as when the trousers are hung on the body, the added volume just flops flat rather than holding-out as I'd like. Similar with the bottom flare piece which is finished with horsehair, I would further like to look at boning to hold-out the godets and the curve side shaping as it tends to flop a little on its own.
I love the look of the waist yoke in a contrasting fabric as I feel it adds another element of unexpected shape and structure the elevates the design further!
Although there are a few amendments to be made, I really love how the toile is looking so far as I think the design is quite a bit outside of my unusual comfort zone, exploring lots of different shapes, silhouettes and structures, and I can't wait to see how it all looks in my own fabric designs!
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